Draping at Christian Dior

I'm currently taking a draping class at a LA fashion school over the weekend. While I have taken flat pattern before, the open canvas that a dress form is is somehow more daunting than measurements, some math, and a blank sheet of paper. Having trained for years to think analytically in both school and work my creative side has yearned to stretch it's muscles. Draping lends itself to so much visual creativity... if you have an idea, you can just throw it up on the form. Of course there are the hiccups of making a garment that is 'structurally sound' etc, so more often than not I find myself trying to run back to the preciseness and dependability of plain old numbers. Funny, isn't it?

When I ran across this disgustingly skilled and jaw dropping video I nearly died. It's a true showcase of the possibilities of draping.

Athletic Inspired: Track Pants

After drafing a pair of lace trim shorts it was clear what my next project was: track pants or as some call them, joggers. One of this year’s hot new runway and street style pieces, track pants are equal parts sporty and chic. They are perfectly sophisticated with a blazer and completely cool and comfortable with a pullover or silk tee. After starting my pattern drafting I found a gorgeous pair of silk charmeuse joggers. I needed them but not for the $298 retail.

So I kept on drafting and decided to try my pattern in some black crepe fabric I had. The result was wonderful! The crepe is the perfect amount of weight to feel substantial and ethereal lightness to make it them the most comfortable pair of pants I have. The waist and ankle bands are made of a soft black jersey. The waist also has a crepe drawstring and is elasticized. I also used couture French seams because I think the insides of a garment should be as beautiful as the outside! Awesome? Yes. Plus, I got compliments on the first day out in them so I really can't complain. I still plan to make a pair in either satin or silk charmeuse. :)

While I will be holding on to my pair (tightly) I have enough fabric to make more so pop over to my shop and get a look!

Let me know what you think!

Night for Day Shorts

It's so easy to get inspired during fashion week (month). Night for day seems to be a popular trend lately that I can't seem to get enough of. I love how the romantic and almost intimate feminine side of a woman can be enhanced by a simple lace trimmed piece and yet played down with a graphic tee or sweatshirt. Of course, with some femme pumps and a silk blouse the piece can take on a whole other look.

Inspired by this trend I was; so I made a wonderful pair of self-lined crepe shorts trimmed with lace-like French loop braid. It took a few days of pattern drafting to find the perfect cut for the self-lined fabric which I chose to do because of my fear of VPL (visible panty lines) and potential sheerness. A few yards of fabric, drafting paper, and days later, I finally have a pair of shorts I never want to take off. They're so easy, comfortable, and flattering. Dare I say I got five compliments on them in the first 2 hours of wear?

Luckily I have some extra fabric on hand so these shorts are available over in my shop!








kenzo sweatshirt • givenchy bracelet • a.l.c tank • diane von furstenberg pumps • queen of mayhem shorts

Random note, can you believe that I cut six inches off my hair about a month ago? It has grown like a weed! I'm contemplating something more drastic...

Versace FW13 vs. the 90s

I know I already posted about the revival of the 90s but I swear to god, it's everywhere. Spice Girl platform boots, anything reminiscent to what Kurt Cobain wore, ah, and the list goes on. I mean seriously, festival wear this year might as well just be an ode to the entire decade. Anyway, remember in Clueless (yes, another girly movie reference) when Tai (Brittany Murphy) finally starting hanging out with the popular crowd? Yeah, that's right, she sported a plaid mini skirt and damn it was cool.

Let's be real, I would have rather have been Cher. Besides the fact Cher was too cool for school (literally) and had the worlds best computerized closet she pretty much beat Donatella Versace to the punch by about a decade. I'm talking: Yellow. Plaid. Mini skirt. Genius!

Moving on in time, or maybe just geographical location from Beverly Hills to the party scene of England we get to two wonderful references: Human Traffic (the movie) and of course the Spice Girls (I'm forever and always obsessed). Take the vibe from Human Traffic and force it into a demure box then take all the pleather action that the Spice Girls rocked and hello we've just arrived at part two of Donatella's Fall/Winter 2013-2014 masterpiece.

Magic. While the 90s are great, I must say that Versace does it complete justice. Updated and far more grown up, the 90s girl is now a woman. Get the close ups and details on the Versace DIY inspiration Plaid Skirt below!

What You Need

Black Yellow Plaid Fabric

Black Pleather Fabric

Silver Leather Cord [1] [2] or Silver Chain

Square Sew-on Rhinestones [1] [2]

Mini Skirt Pattern

The directions would go something like sew the skirt, cut strips of the black leather out, wave with silver leather/chain and sew on rhinestones. It's all pretty straight forward so I hope I get some space on my sewing projects list to bang this one out!


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DIY Inspiration: Derek Lam FW 2013-2014 Capes

The Derek Lam FW 2013-2014 collection that just showed at New York Fashion Week featured a few interesting capes. They seemed more updated and modern with their square necklines and clean seam lines. I am especially fond of the short black cape. It really adds an element of clean to the whole look. Of course I am quite liking the texture as well. Here are some great patterns to get you started on this (so far) micro-trend: BurdaStyle, for those who do not mind adding seam allowance, and Simplicity. I have gone and gotten a bit more detailed shots of the images to help with any details you want to replicate, enjoy!

For more great details and the rundown on the collection check out style.com. Also be sure to get a glimpse backstage over at Fashion I Sing... the DIY sewing possibilities are endless for this collection and there really is no better time to start planning your fall DIY wardrobe than before spring hits!

Which cape is your favorite?

How to Find the Source of Your Fabric

Dont you wish that you knew more about the source of your fabric? Here are some easy steps to finding out the origin of your fabric as a home sewer!

Are there any DIYs you would like to see? Drop me a comment in the comments box and let me know!

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Project Sneak Peak: Emerald Draped Dress

I've been pretty super busy lately running around after work trying to source fabric and draft patterns. A couple weekends ago I found this fabulous green stretch knit. I think I might be in love with it because it's the Pantone color of the year: emerald, or it might be love because of the fabulous way it drapes. When I bought it I had a dress in mind. Of course I only had odd cuts of muslin to make this pattern with so it's kind of messed up but I figured that I would give you all a sneak peak into one of my projects... even though it may fail.




As you can especially see in the last image, the side seam is spinning towards the back. I also have yet to put on sleeve and finish the neck and hemline. Some of the draping that I created on the muslin didn't transfer well to this soft handed fabric. I also draped the muslin in a much stiffer way than you normally would since I only had a strange cut left. Oh, and yes, this is totally a PhotoBooth photo post.
It's kind of a toss up of a project, but I really hope it works out because I'm already in love with it! Plus, I have the perfect boots for it... but more on that later!
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Oversized Yolk Tee

Oversized tops are definitely one of my favorite things of late. Actually, just a great tee. I love a shirt that I can put on with some pants or a skirt, find an accessory to match and just get out the door. This shirt is pretty much that. It's a super stretchy jersey shirt that I'd eventually love to make out of a silk blend jersey. Mmmm, luxurious, oversized slouch.

This top was relatively quick to sew except for the fact I cut a hole in the sleeve clipping threads just as I had finished the piece! Disaster, but I darned and patched the knit with a triangle. I love triangles. You'll also be proud that I resisted the urge to make this piece out of black or some shade of grey which is always my natural instinct!

Oh yes, I look exhausted in this photo AGAIN. Just go with it.

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DIY Popover Top

Popover tops have been all over the runways as of late. From Thakoon to Marni this 80s inspired trend has come back in just about every variation you can think of. Simple jersey, mesh cutouts, metallics, crazy prints, textures... the list goes on. The great thing about these tops is that you can literally just pop them over any bottom separate to make an outfit. Amazing. Clean lines are pretty much orgasmic for me so naturally I had to do a popover top DIY.

I had originally thought to replicate a Markus Lupfer grey jersey/lilac-metallic top (below) but ultimately decided to make it out of fabric I already had! The thick spandex paired with a neon silky print reminded me of beach so I ended up adding to wetsuit-like stitch details. Please ignore how tired I look! I might have stayed up out of excitement of sewing this piece...





Here are some inspirational pieces that I worked from to achieve the silhouette. I'm sure you could dream up a million more variations.  

I will be posting a pattern to make this from some time soon (I promise)! I'm hoping to eventually make a whole section of patterns that you can browse through, download, and make so stay tuned!  I really liked the idea of being able to make this top ASAP and couldn't wait to go get a zipper so I could use non-stretch fabric but am toying with the idea of making this top in leather, in which case you will get a pattern drafted for non-stretch fabric. :)





What other DIYs or patterns would you like to see? Leave me a comment below and let me know!

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DIY PVC Leggings

If you're like me, you've long since hopped on the bandwagon of wanting a pair of PVC leggings. Or maybe more recently, Karlie Kloss' wardrobe in the Neiman Marcus x Target collaboration has you lusting after a pair. Well today's your lucky day! Instead of dropping a pretty penny make them yourself using my free legging pattern in conjunction with my DIY Legging tutorial and the instructions below!




Supplies & Instructions

• 4-way stretch PVC - I purchased mine from MJ Trends and I was very happy with it. It comes in a variety of colours. 
• Follow the instructions in the DIY Legging tutorial however:
• Do NOT pin PVC fabric as it will not heal. Simply use some tape to tape pieces together!
• Use a seam allowance of 10mm for the leg seams and if not using a serger, finish raw edge with a small zigzag stitch. 
• When sewing with the PVC side of the fabric coming in contact with the presser foot, you may experience issues with the foot sticking. Place a piece of paper/tissue paper between the foot and fabric. You may also try corn starch.
• Use the photos below for further clarity of the legging tutorial.

1 • Cut pattern out of fabric without pinning. You can use chalk to mark the non-PVC side of the fabric. 

2 • Tape do not pin fabric.

3 • Cut the waistband making sure to mark the overlapping sections.

4 • Elastic at waistband is folded under and top stitched with a twin needle.

5 • PVC can stick to the presser foot. I used paper between the two. Other options: tissue paper, corn starch, lubricant, walking foot, PVC foot.

The first image is of the actual leggings I made, but below find the Karlie Kloss ad for some further inspiration. You can even try making a hybrid of liquid PVC and wet look like sold at Black Milk.

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DIY Leggings

Leggings have become a serious staple item in my wardrobe over the past five years. I think I own about three pairs of high-shine or leather leggings alone. Digitally printed and leather leggings have become hugely popular as of late but can unfortunately prices can run into the four digit numbers. The solution? A legging DIY!

Leggings are stupidly easy to make and are the perfect project for a beginner seamstress or really anyone that is feeling a little creative and wouldn't mind using a sewing machine. I've gone and drafted a free legging pattern in size small (EU 36) that you can download and print. I admit it was slave labour, but totally out of love. Below are simple instructions but I have written up beginner detailed instructions.

*New!* Photos for instructions and PVC legging tutorial found here.


Supplies:

• sewing machine or overlock machine
• 1 1/2 yards of spandex, stretch jersey, or any 4-way stretch fabric
• 2 spools of matching thread
• 5/8" wide elastic
• stretch fabric needle
• twin needle (or use small zig zag stitch)
• scissors, pins, pens, and any other notions you'd usually use

Assemble the pattern:

• Download, print and assemble the pattern by cutting to the bounding box and matching the number/letter notches. 1A should match with 1A, etc. Tape the sheets together. Make sure that the test square measures 4" x 4" when printed out. If it doesn't, you may have to adjust your printer settings so that it is not set on 'scale to fit'.

Directions:

• Cut pattern out of fabric. The pattern has 5/8" seam allowance and 1 1/4" hem allowance.
• Zig zag stitch or overlock the leg seams with the right sides of the fabric together. Do the same to the center seam while matching the front and back of each leg.
• Hem the leggings and stitch with twin needle or use a zig zag stitch.
• Cut elastic to length of where the waistband will sit + overlap allowance. I used 26" + allowance. Make a circle and zig zag stitch overlap.
• Place elastic into waist on the wrong side of the fabric. Pin in place. Stitch top edge or elastic with zig zag or overlock being sure to stretch elastic if needed. Turn elastic under and stitch lower edge of elastic with twin needle or zig zag stitch. Detailed tutorial.

Notes: You can find some really cool stretch fabric at Spandex House or your local garment district but stretch fabric is also available in stores like JoAnn's in the dance and swimwear fabric aisle.
Search the web and use high fashion retail sites such as Net-A-Porter to find images like the ones I've posted above. Happy DIY-ing!

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Blaze Inspired

I was on the hunt for some fun patterns to get inspired by. I love torturing myself by having to add seam allowance to every pattern... ever... so I decided to start at Burda Style. Actually, the reality is that they have the most current styles because they release patterns monthly. I'm in love with Burda Style and once-upon-a-time subscribed to the magazine. This process lead me to Style.com and the whole thing spiraled out of control. It's almost like I've been time warped to last year when I would just sit around, get inspired, sew, and blog about it! Oh yeah, and do school work. The crazy thing is that was OVER a year ago. I can't believe it and frankly don't want to think about it. Here are the small bits and pieces of my mind that I took the time to put down. Yes, it's a fraction of the garbage that is floating around up in there. ;)

I can't wait to get started! I'm sure anything I produce will be nothing like what I posted as inspiration. Haha, so typical.

DIY Designer Pillows

For the longest time I had a brand new, gorgeous, grey couch and no pillows to adorn it. Months ago I had found some gorgeous designer pillows for my friends apartment, alas they were $100 a piece. I tracked down the fabric and we made two pillows for half the price of one. I travel four days a week and desperately wanted the perfect pillows. So, I went out and bought the perfect fabric but never got around to buy zippers... until this weekend. Follow me, step by step, and learn how to make some designer style pillows.

Before you start making pillows, you should have some basic knowledge in using a sewing machine. You won't be doing anything but sewing straight lines, but it will involve sewing in an invisible zipper.

Step 1: Find your perfect fabric. Be sure to buy matching invisible zippers. You should also buy some pillow inserts which are available at most fabric stores like Joann's.

Note: Here are some basic guidelines for how much fabric to buy: If your insert pillow is 20"x20" you will want to be able to cut two pieces of fabric that are about 20.5"x20.5". That would mean you'd want a 20"-22" invisible zipper (or however large of a hole you think you'll be able to shove your pillow insert into).

Step 2: Take your fabric and cut rectangles/squares that are the size of the pillow insert + 0.5" on the height and the width. That is a 0.25" seam allowance on each side.

Step 3: If your fabric is a loose weave, or will unravel easily like mine did, you will want to serge the fabric around each side. If you don't own a serger you can simply use the zigzag stitch on a sewing machine to go over the edges.

Step 4: Insert your invisible zipper. There are some great tutorials out there, like this one. You do not need to use an invisible zipper foot to sew an invisible zipper-- it's more on an aid!

Step 5: Finish two edges of the pillow with the right sides together. Unzip the zipper, at least part way (so you can turn it right size out later) and finish the remaining side. Turn the pillow right side out.

Step 6: push the corners out with the point of a scissor, etc.

Step 7: Stuff your pillow insert into the cover, zip up, and enjoy!

Feel free to email me or comment with any questions. If you're a first time user of a sewing machine, you might want to get a more experienced friend to help, and to practice sewing straight lines! My email can be found on this page.

Egret Dress

Once again it's that time of year that we break out our spring and summer frocks. They're so easy to just throw on and easily become ultra chic with a pair of heels and a clutch. Here is my latest creation. I guess I'm trying to build my spring wardrobe.


My inspiration came from the simple chic cut of the many dresses on the SS 2011 runway.



Prints are also really huge this year and a great way to make a simple dress stand out.



I especially liked the back of this dress although this means I'll have to go bra-less (not an issue for someone with a small chest unless someone starts blasting the AC). Although I might invest in one of those cool low back criss-cross bras!



Some of you might know that I'm graduating in 2 weeks and will be moving on to the real world. Because of this you should be expecting more wardrobe building posts. :)

Let me know what you think! Interested in buying one? Email me at christinaooi at gmail.

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